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Cold-Water Eden
- ナレーター： Patrick McBrearty
- 再生時間： 11 時間 19 分
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Cold-Water Eden
あらすじ・解説
Born and raised in Bundoran, with the waves of the west coast of Ireland breaking at his doorstep, Richie Fitzgerald was moulded by his environment – from his initiation to surfing at the age of 9 in the cold Atlantic water to becoming Ireland’s first ever pro surfer and competing on a global scale.
But learning to surf in 1980s Ireland wasn’t without its challenges. With little to no equipment, Richie duct-taped Marigolds over woollen gloves to protect his hands from the freezing water and even melted Christening candles to pour on his board in place of surf wax.
Yet the west of Ireland boasts waves of size and quality to rival those in California and Hawaii, attracting surfers from all over the world who want to test their mettle, and Richie has surfed the biggest, and most dangerous, of them.
Cold-Water Eden is not just a captivating memoir about a transcendent sport: it is at its heart a coming-of-age story about one man’s pursuit of big waves and the dawn of Ireland as a singular destination on the global surf scene.
批評家のレビュー
‘It’s a brilliant story.’ – Ray D’Arcy, RTÉ
‘The book is incredible.’ – Shane Hannon, Off the Ball
‘It is a fascinating and captivating tale of growing up in the North West frontier town that was a haven for Catholics from the North, during the Troubles, and when the waves off Rougey and Tullan Strand were seen as little more than the start of an emigrant’s journey to the Big Apple and beyond.’ – Michael McHugh, Donegal Democrat