• Flow

  • 2019/07/08
  • 再生時間: 2 分
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  • The ocean brings me peace in a way no other place can –

     

    In the waves of the Southern California Pacific Ocean I feel divine generosity and a safe smallness.

     

    Salt water and the oxygenated white foam always wash away fatigue and move me towards an awareness of my body that I can’t get on land.

     

    I am suspended.

    I am unequal to the power of the sea.

     

    And somehow, I am safe.

     

    Body surfing and diving under the waves never bore me. No two waves ever strike me as the same.

     

    Some defect of character makes me suspicious of ease. Nowhere do I notice this aspect of my personality more completely than when I am in the waves.

     

    The mismatch of the ocean shifting it’s weight towards me

    and my puny strength

    heighten my sense of how small I am in a universe of bigger things.

     

    But then, when I yield to the waves –

    when I align myself with dignity

    to their power –

    I surf.

     

    You can’t flop into the wave

    You just tumble

     

    With a humble but dignified turn in harmony with the energy in the water that started far from shore, you can be a small partner in a very powerful dance.

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あらすじ・解説

The ocean brings me peace in a way no other place can –

 

In the waves of the Southern California Pacific Ocean I feel divine generosity and a safe smallness.

 

Salt water and the oxygenated white foam always wash away fatigue and move me towards an awareness of my body that I can’t get on land.

 

I am suspended.

I am unequal to the power of the sea.

 

And somehow, I am safe.

 

Body surfing and diving under the waves never bore me. No two waves ever strike me as the same.

 

Some defect of character makes me suspicious of ease. Nowhere do I notice this aspect of my personality more completely than when I am in the waves.

 

The mismatch of the ocean shifting it’s weight towards me

and my puny strength

heighten my sense of how small I am in a universe of bigger things.

 

But then, when I yield to the waves –

when I align myself with dignity

to their power –

I surf.

 

You can’t flop into the wave

You just tumble

 

With a humble but dignified turn in harmony with the energy in the water that started far from shore, you can be a small partner in a very powerful dance.

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