What happens when the system collapses, and you decide to build something meaningful with your hands?

In this episode of Jeansland, Andrew sits down with Pete Roberts, founder of Origin, the American brand making jeans, boots, and apparel entirely on U.S. soil. After the 2008 recession upended his life and wiped out his business, Pete was left with a timber-frame cabin in the woods of Maine, two young kids, and no clear way forward. So he and a group of friends and family cut down Eastern white pines from the surrounding woods and hand-built a sturdy wooden workshop—barn-sized and framed with massive 10x10 timbers—where they powered up a generator, scavenged old sewing machines, and stitched a new future—one garment at a time.

But this isn’t a story about recovery. It’s about direction. From a redesigned jiu-jitsu gi to a full-scale denim operation, Pete has spent the last 15 years reclaiming the machines, knowledge, and spirit of domestic manufacturing—while shaping a 100-year plan to build something lasting, local, and real.

If you’ve ever wondered what it means to start over on purpose, and do it all by hand, this one’s for you.

Guest: Pete Roberts, founder of Origin USA

In this powerful two-part conversation, Andrew Olah welcomes back Umer Farooq Qureshi for a deep dive into the structural imbalances plaguing the denim supply chain. Framed by the enduring legacy of colonial capitalism, the discussion explores how suppliers have been conditioned to act like beggars in pursuit of orders — and how that mindset must shift. Together, they challenge conventional wisdom on pricing, power, partnerships, and trade shows, while calling for a new era of unity, dignity, and bold reinvention.

Did you know that both Berkshire Hathaway and Samsung started in textiles and went on to reinvent themselves entirely? So what’s stopping today’s denim suppliers from doing the same? Why should mills settle for scraps when companies like Loro Piana and Zegna showed how textile makers can build global luxury brands?

This is a rare, brutally honest conversation about uncomfortable truths and how facing them might just be the first step toward a better future for the industry.

Connect with Umer Farooq Qureshi

In this powerful two-part conversation, Andrew Olah welcomes back Umer Farooq Qureshi for a deep dive into the structural imbalances plaguing the denim supply chain. Framed by the enduring legacy of colonial capitalism, the discussion explores how suppliers have been conditioned to act like beggars in pursuit of orders — and how that mindset must shift. Together, they challenge conventional wisdom on pricing, power, partnerships, and trade shows, while calling for a new era of unity, dignity, and bold reinvention.

Did you know that both Berkshire Hathaway and Samsung started in textiles and went on to reinvent themselves entirely? So what’s stopping today’s denim suppliers from doing the same? Why should mills settle for scraps when companies like Loro Piana and Zegna showed how textile makers can build global luxury brands?

This is a rare, brutally honest conversation about uncomfortable truths and how facing them might just be the first step toward a better future for the industry.

Connect with Umer Farooq Qureshi

What if sustainability wasn’t a competitive edge — but the baseline for the entire denim industry? Andrew sits down with sustainability expert Roian Atwood to unpack the urgent challenges and overlooked opportunities shaping denim’s future.

Roian is a seasoned business leader and sustainability practitioner who’s spent over two decades improving the social and environmental performance of products and supply chains. A former global sustainability director for Wrangler and Lee Jeans, he now consults on decarbonization, manufacturing optimization, and conservation biology across the globe.

Together, Andrew and Roian dive deep into how the industry can break down silos, democratize innovation, and replace marketing buzzwords with real progress. Roian shares why collective problem-solving, supply chain accountability, and transparency are critical, and how working together could unlock better outcomes for both the planet and the people making our jeans.

Tune in to hear why the “magic wand” isn’t a fairy tale fix, but a powerful way to reframe sustainability as a shared mission.

Connect with Roian Atwood

Designer and brand consultant Johnny Diamandis joins Andrew Olah to explore what it truly takes to build a fashion brand today. With a globally successful track record designing menswear, accessories, and more for brands like Evisu, Burberry London, Nike, Fake London, and CAT Footwear, Johnny shares candid insights from both industry and academia. The conversation covers the financial realities of launching a brand, storytelling, design leadership, innovation, and what makes a product stand out—plus thoughtful advice for students and emerging designers. His teaching work includes institutions such as the Royal College of Art London, Parsons New York, and currently, the School of the Art Institute of Chicago.

Connect with Johnny Diamandis:
LinkedIn | Website

In this episode, cotton expert Tim North discusses global cotton production, trade dynamics, and government support programs in key countries like the U.S., India, China, and Pakistan. He highlights how subsidies distort markets, why some traditional exporters have become importers, and the challenges facing producers.

The conversation also covers the rise of regenerative and traceable cotton as scalable, sustainable alternatives to organic cotton. Looking ahead, North sees little short-term price movement unless supply issues, especially in Texas, disrupt the market.

Want more of Tim’s insights and expertise? Go knock on the door: https://www.timnorthcotton.com/

Andrew and Umer Farooq Qureshi pull back the denim curtain to reveal Levi’s jaw-dropping 62% margin is built on supplier suffering. From closed-door biddings to so-called partnerships, from collapsing currencies to cotton politics, this episode shows exactly how the kings (brands) are bleeding the commoners (factories) dry, and what happens when the commoners stop playing nice. This isn’t just a talk about jeans. It’s about fairness, futures, and who gets crushed when a spreadsheet wins.

👉 Want the backstory? This whole conversation was sparked by Umer’s LinkedIn post: The Things No One Tells You but You Should Know If You’re a Levi’s Supplier

In this solo episode, Andrew returns from a whirlwind week—first as a guest at the Kingpin Show in Amsterdam, his first time attending since selling the business, and then at a high-level diplomatic event in Washington, D.C.—to share unfiltered reflections on industry dynamics, global economic shifts, and the rising impact of U.S. tariffs. From the importance of venue vibes to why group negotiations could save the supply chain, this candid conversation covers it all. Plus, insights from an unexpected bright spot: Pakistan’s surprising economic turnaround.

Got thoughts on the episode or something you'd like Andrew to cover next? He’d love to hear from you: amolah@olah.com.