Tony Astle is back in New Zealand, and this week he ate at Ponsonby’s San Ray.

They serve bistro classics with the vibrant flavours of Southern California and Mexico, all cooked over coals and woodfire.

Tony sampled both the Fresh Waiheke Oysters, the Oysters Natural, the Octopus, and the Wagyu Bavette, among others, each dish ranking well.

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Ingredients

• 150 g almonds, toasted
• 130 g hazelnuts, toasted
• 180 g dried peaches or apricots, chopped
• 40 g candied peel, chopped
• 125 g flour, sieved
• 25 g cocoa powder
• 2 tsp cinnamon
• ½ tsp allspice
• ½ tsp ground ginger
• ¼ tsp ground gloves
• 180 ml runny honey
• ¼ tsp salt
• 200 g white sugar
• 115 g dark chocolate

Method:

1. Heat oven to 155 deg C. Grease and line a 23cm cake pan with non-stick paper.
2. Sieve together the flour, cocoa, spices, and salt. Combine with all ingredients EXCEPT the honey, sugar and chocolate.
3. Combine the honey and sugar in a clean saucepan, and heat until it reaches the soft ball stage, 115-dec C, using a sugar thermometer.
4. When the honey/sugar mix reaches that temperature, remove from the stove and cool for 1-2 minutes. Then pour over the chocolate, stirring to melt the chocolate and combine the honey/sugar and melting chocolate together. Do this quickly.
5. Add this mix to the other ingredients.
6. Combine, and then press into the lined cake pan. This will take some strength!* Again work quickly ensuring all dry ingredients are well incorporated.
7. Bake in the preheated oven for 30 mins. Cool.
8. Remove from mould, dust with icing sugar. Cut into thin wedges.
9. Eat and enjoy!

*Panforte means strong bread, a reference to its taste rather than its firmness.

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This week Tony Astle didn’t dine out, but rather is telling the story of his own culinary endeavours.

At the height of its success in the 1980s, Tony and Beth Astle owned and operated Antoine’s, a Parnell-based restaurant that was booked out months in advance.

‘Let Them Eat Tripe’ tells the story of Antoine’s, and Tony joined Kerre Woodham for a chat about the recently released book.

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4 Portions

Ingredients:

• 450 g fresh asparagus
• 700 ml chicken or vegetable stock
• 120 g potato, diced peeled
• 50 g onion, diced
• 5 cloves garlic, crushed
• 55 g butter
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• salt and pepper
• 170 ml cream
• extra blanched asparagus to garnish

Method:

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the diced potato, onion, and crushed garlic. Sweat together without colour for 3 minutes.
2. Add the stock and cook the ingredients until the potato is cooked through. Approximately 12 minutes.
3. Add the asparagus (chopped) and continue cooking until the asparagus is just done.
4. Puree. For a refined soup strain, using some force. For a rustic soup, do not strain.
5. In a clean pan, add the soup. Heat. Add the cream. Check seasoning and adjust.
6. Finish with lemon juice.

Plating:

Portion the soup. Top with a swirl of fresh cream and some sliced asparagus or asparagus tips. Eat and enjoy.

Note:

Do not overcook the asparagus, otherwise your soup will lose its fresh green colour.

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Returning home from his adventures in France, Tony Astle has one more restaurant to review from his trip. This week, he last ate at La Brasserie du Corton, an offshoot of Villa Madie with seasonal menus and fresh ingredients.

He sampled the Tartare de boeuf aux huîtres, poitrine de cochon confite, and the thon rouge de Méditerranée with an accompanying ratatouille, among other dishes.

“The service at Corton is extremely professional. Every need was executed with aplomb.”

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Ingredients:

Eggs

Sugar

Chocolate

Grand marnier

Egg whites

Pinch of salt

Icing sugar

Cream

Additional grand marnier (optional)

Method:

1. Line a 9 x 6 cm sponge sandwich tin with non-stick baking paper. Allow for high sides, the cooked sponge will rise.
2. Preheat the oven to 180 deg C.
3. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks, gradually adding the sugar. Beat until the mix is thick and forms a ribbon.
4. Melt the chocolate and grand marnier over a bain marie (hot water bath). When melted, set aside over the water bath for warmth.
5. Whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt, until the whites golf firm peaks.
6. Combine the chocolate/grand marnier mix with the thick sugar/egg yolk mix. Beat until combined.
7. Gently fold through the egg white.
8. Pour into the prepared lined sandwich tin. Even out the surface.
9. Bake for 10-15 minutes until the centre is firm to the touch.
10. Remove from the oven, let cool.
11. Prepare a sheet of tin foil that is topped with a sheet of baking paper. Liberally sprinkle the baking paper with icing sugar.
12. Invert the sponge tin onto the icing sugared paper, releasing the sponge. Remove the baking paper from the sponges base.
13. Whip the cream. Spread it on half of the roulade leaving a space at the edge of the roulade that has no cream. Roll up the roulade in a rolling motion, away from yourself.
14. Make sure the roll is tight and even by screwing up either end of the roulade, using the tin foil, thus creating an evenly shaped roulade.
15. Refrigerate (best refrigerated overnight), or for at least a few hours.
16. Remove from the refrigerator. Gently unwrap. Slice portions and plate.
17. Eat and enjoy!

Note:

After unwrapping the roulade, and before cutting it into portions, you may like to sprinkle it with more grand marnier.

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